THINGS I LOVE vol.24

　

During the Paris men's collection in January 2007, there was a rumor that Hedi Slimane would step down as director of Dior Homme after the 2008 AW collection. When I heard that, I thought, ``What?! Paris Collection without Eddie?'' and felt like I had been taken off the ladder. Around 2007, I was often wearing John Galliano and LANVIN, but I wasn't as obsessed with it as I was when I used to wear GUCCI and DIOR HOMME. Of course Abercrombie While I was intrigued by & Fitch's online shopping site, I was wondering what exactly I was aiming for.

Meanwhile, in the spring of 2007, Tom Ford opened the first TOM FORD store on Madison Avenue in New York. I also received an invitation to the open event. Tom Ford revived GUCCI, created a new business model, and ignited a luxury brand revival boom. He started a brand under his own name. The opening event held at the new store in New York was extremely glamorous, and people related to Tom Ford gathered together. The first collection show was held inside the store.

After the party, a dinner for about 40 people was held in the ballroom of The Carlyle Hotel. I sat around a table with Hidetoshi Nakata (hereinafter referred to as Hide) and Tsuyoshi Noguchi (hereinafter referred to as Tsuyoshi) in a wonderful Art Deco setting that would amaze the visitors. At the next table, Anna Wintour, Julianne Moore, Gwyneth Paltrow and Kate Hudson were surrounding Tom Ford. At the next table was photographer Terry Richardson. 『THE It was a wonderful evening party worthy of a Tom Ford Dinner. I had planned to wear GUCCI clothes, but in the end I ended up wearing a red YSL tuxedo jacket (Tom Ford's first collection). I thought it might be more connected than clothes from the GUCCI era. In the end, I could have gone with either one, but Tom Ford himself was happy and said, ``You have a nice jacket!'', so I'm glad I wore it. YSL from Tom Ford's era retained the glamor of Yves Saint Laurent's era in details such as jacket lapels and side badges on pants. I've never been there, but it reminds me of the rich and gorgeous image of the legendary club ``54'' in New York.

At dinner at Carlyle, I felt like I was traveling back in time to the old ``54.'' As expected of Tom Ford. Memories from the day we toasted at the Park Hyatt in Shinjuku in 1998 flashed through my head like flashing lights. It was thanks to Tom Ford that I was able to get closer to GUCCI, YSL, and the legendary brands of Milan and Paris. I have nothing but gratitude.

The suit photographed this time is the second suit made at the now-defunct first TOM FORD store on Madison Avenue. I chose a Buckingham model that was more TOM FORD-like, and a different type of suit from the one I made on the day of the opening. This is a macho type model that is not suitable for Japanese people, and is more suitable for tall people. I tried this. Unlike the first pair, the lapels are large and the jacket has a strong presence, so personally I wish it was 10cm longer from the knees down. Even with such regrets, I've been wearing it for over 16 years since it was completed, so I guess in the end I've come to terms with myself and am somehow satisfied with it. It's not ideal (my body), but the more I keep wearing it, the more I start to like it. Cases like this are rare, but I feel like this is what is called "custom-made magic." I plan on wearing it carefully from now on as well.

　

　

■Tomoki Yuma (@stsukezane）
Born in Kyoto City in 1965. Started his career as an editor in the editorial department of Magazine House ``POPEYE''. Currently, in addition to planning and styling fashion pages for magazines, she also designs advertising costumes for artists and musicians. Before the coronavirus, he covered men's collections in Paris and Milan for over 35 years.

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